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Bowen |
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Bowen |
Up today to the
sun shining and the waters in Gloucester passage calm. Thur 13th
Sept. We head out for a fairly easy trip
to Bowen, only 20km so not too far. We
motored in through Stone Island to see Bowen in front of us. As soon as we got in past Dalrymple Point it
became really blowy so we headed straight to the Bowen Marina to refuel. This will be our last fuel stop now until Townsville. We motor in through a very narrow passage
of red and green beacons into an old dinge marina. There are no actual berths here all the boats
that are in the marina are tied up onto poles in the water (pile berths). We wonder how on earth these boats manage to
get themselves in here and tied up, it’s a very tight squeeze. We can’t seem to find the fuel pumps, so give
them a call. The lady Christie spoke to
was most unhelpful and just said its on the beach…. Yeah where’s the beach??? You’ll
see it she says. Oh well we motor around
the whole marina twice and finally come across the pump. The one and only pump that there is. So we tie Mingo up with no problems, only to
be told that the pump lead wont reach so we have to move to another area and
tie ourselves up to a trawler boat.
Andrew motors in to the tightest spot we have
ever had to fit Mingo, and as we are turning in we clip the anchor on the
trawler next to us (no damage thank goodness), so out we go again and second
attempt straight in with no problems. We
fill up with about 380 litres of fuel and can’t wait to get out of here. Andrew had been told that Bowen was a nice
old country town, but so far the impression is not good. We were going to spend the morning here
having a look around, but with the winds outside the marina blowing up and
rough we couldn’t anchor and the marina would not let us stay. I guess we will be visiting Bowen by car but
I don’t think we are missing much, I shouldn’t judge until I’ve seen it. Bowen is known to be the oldest Qld town
north of Brisbane and has a lot of heritage buildings and wide streets. Bowen is where the Baz Luhrmans movie
“Australia” was filmed in 2007. Bowen is also the
tomato capital of Qld but its most important industries are cattle and coal.
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Coal pontoon and ship out of Bowen |
We leave Bowen and
head the 80 kilometres north towards Cape Upstart. Once again the weather is pretty good so
waters fairly calm although the swell is so strong that we get Mingo onto the
plain and cant keep her there. She’s up
to 43km an hour then drops in a split second back down to 12km. Doing this it just eats through the
fuel. The trouble is the swell is so
strong that as we are going through the trough we are being pulled back into it
constantly slowing us down. We manage to
get her onto the plain for parts of the trip but not the whole journey, making
an easy trip into a longish one. More
frustrating than anything, especially as you watch the fuel gauge dropping considerably.
Motoring north out of Bowen about 50km and we
came across a jetty that would have to have been at least 3 kilometres with a
big ship at the end. This we find out
later is used to transport coal.
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The Bun |
We motor towards
the granite Headland that is known as Cape Upstart and see in the distance a very rocky outlook to the Cape and at the tip is a 7-meter
high-detached rock on the northwest tip called “The Bun”. This is a white rock and stands out like a
sore thumb. We notice that cape is made up of very rocky terrain. Its quite a view and makes for good scenery.
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Rocky outlook of Cape Upstart |
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Cape Upstart with houses just off the beach |
Cape Upstart is
part of a small national park and on the western side it is lined with numerous
sandy beaches with rocky headlands. You
see these rocks at the top of the cape and they look as though they just need a
quick push and they will come tumbling down.
Hope they don’t one day, as there are a number of houses along the shoreline,
which are apparently mainly owned by people from Ayre and Home Hill. These are not permanent residents but lived
in occasionally for the most part for weekend getaways and are only accessible
by water, there are no roads leading to Cape Upstart.
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Cape Upstart Beach |
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Mingo in the distance at Cape Upstart all alone |
We anchor up in
here for the night and go for a tinny ride to have a look around these houses
and beaches. Its very nice and oh what a
great spot to have a place, although what would you do if you did live
here. As we were walking along the beach
a huge Alsatian comes bounding down to us, jumping up at us and nipping us on
the hands, all abit daunting, but it seemed OK.
Thank goodness the lady owner came and rescued us from him, as he would
not stop jumping up at us. We had a chat
to her and asked what the houses go for; she said the latest one, which was a
tin shack style home, sold for $280,000 a few years ago. Very expensive for being in the middle of now
where, but then again if you want out of the rat race a great place to live.
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Our collection of shells |
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Green Sea Eel |
We spend the
afternoon walking the beach, over the rocks and have a little collection of
shells.
We didn’t want to take them from
the beach so left them on a rock.
Some are
so perfect in shape and size and colour.
As we are motoring out in the tinny we notice a green spotty sea eel
swimming past.
During the
evening, Andrew siphons the fuel from the Jerry cans into the tank we had used
coming over here and decided to go for a quick dip in the water. Its dark outside now, so Christie says please
be careful, shark feeding time an all.
Andrew jumps in and no more than 2 minutes later he’s scrambling out on
to the duck board. Christie has never
seem him go for such a fast swim. What’s
wrong she asks and he says something big swiped past my foot. That was a short-lived dip tonight. Now the
rods our out to see if he can catch it. An hour or so later and he manages to
snag another grey nurse shark. We are
feeling like something sweet tonight, so Christie makes a Lemon Cheesecake.
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Homemade lemon Cheesecake |
We are up very
early this morning, 0600 hours. Its
Friday 14th September and another lovely day. We still have just over a week until our
flight back to Brisbane, but have to be careful too in case we have a run of bad
winds. Even though we are not ready to head into port again yet, we also keep
in the backs of our minds that we don’t want to encounter any problems that
hold us up.
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Cape Bowling Green in distance |
After leaving Cape
Upstart we head towards Cape Bowling Green, which is approx. 64km north. We motor along past the inland town of Ayr
and Home Hill through what seems like a never-ending piece of land. Just as we head around the corner a little it
seems to appear again and there’s more. This stretch went for about 50 of the
64 km into the next Cape. We finally
get to the tip of Cape Bowling Green and around to the west into a small inlet
to anchor up.
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Cape Bowling Green
We walk around and
see what looks like a UFO having landed on the beach (we cant quite work out
what its for). Further down the beach we
head into a mangrove area and further on land grass and shrubs with pink flowers
scattered in between. We also notice a small jelly fish lying on the sand. |
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Chris at Cape Bowling Green with tinny and Mingo
Cape Bowling Green
is the lowest cape on the coast and is another long stretch of a bay with a
beach that has ocean on either side.
Once anchored we go for another long walk along the beach, phew the sand
is so hot under our feet that every few steps we have to stop and Andrew sweeps
sand across to stand on a cool bit. The
beach seems so vast. |
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Andrew on the vast beach of Cape Bowling Green |
Leaving Cape
Bowling Green, Mingo is a lot lighter now for the first time on our trip,
Andrew manages to get her on the plain and up to 48km/ph. and we just glided
over the glass like water. It was such a
smooth comfortable trip and a great way to be welcomed into the entrance of
Townsville.
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Calm waters out at sea, heading to Townsville |
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Fuel flow meter indicator |
Andrew put in a
fuel flow meter a couple of weeks ago and its great now being able to monitor
the fuel we are using. Motoring along at
48km we are using 88.89 litres per hour, which equates to 1.89 litres per
kilometre – not bad for a V8 motor. She
is just purring along so smoothly today.
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Cape Cleveland |
We head towards
Cape Cleveland and can see Townsville and Magnetic Island in the distance. Cape Cleveland is the eastern headland to
Cleveland Bay and the gateway to Townsville from the south. We work out that we don’t have quite enough
fuel to spend a few days around Magnetic so head in towards Townsville instead.